From Plutocracy to the People: A New Era of Fashion Activism
Designers Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose Dalton have officially pivoted their creative narrative. Following a previous collection that bitingly critiqued the ultra-wealthy-staged in a Parisian stock exchange and pointedly titled “The 1%”-the duo has shifted their focus toward the collective. As Bhaskaran noted, this latest presentation serves as a direct response to their previous work, effectively transferring the “source of power” from the elite to the masses.
Redefining Representation on the Runway
The most striking element of this season’s showcase was the casting. By featuring a lineup composed entirely of 99 models of color, the designers moved beyond mere aesthetic choices to make a profound statement on pluralism. This deliberate move serves as a form of “redistribution of representation,” challenging the traditional luxury fashion industry’s historical tendency to cater exclusively to high-net-worth individuals.
To amplify this message, the show was held at the base of the Monument à la République. By choosing a location deeply rooted in the history of French civil protest and public demonstration, Bhaskaran and Dalton transformed the runway into a political podium. In an industry often criticized for its insularity, this show functioned as a “Trojan horse,” successfully embedding social activism into the high-gloss spectacle of a luxury fashion event.
Navigating the Paradox of Inclusion
The designers were acutely aware of the inherent irony in their choice of venue. While the Monument à la République is a symbol of populist power, the logistics of a major fashion production necessitated the use of barricades and security perimeters. This created a temporary “fence of privilege” around a site meant for the public.
To reconcile this, the creative team made a conscious effort to invite members of the general public inside the barricades. This gesture acknowledged the tension between the exclusivity of the fashion world and the inclusive message they aimed to project. It serves as a reminder that while the industry is beginning to address its lack of diversity-with recent reports from the Fashion Spot indicating that runway diversity has reached record highs, with over 40% of models in major fashion weeks now being people of color-there is still a significant gap between performative inclusion and genuine, barrier-free access.
