A Curated Archive: Octavius La Rosa’s Massive Comme des Garçons Auction
For those who view fashion as fine art, a monumental event is on the horizon. On September 15, Octavius La Rosa-the visionary behind the Melbourne-based archive dot COMME-is partnering with Kerry Taylor Auctions to release a significant portion of his legendary collection. With an archive that boasts over 5,000 garments, La Rosa is parting ways with 265 carefully selected pieces, offering collectors a rare opportunity to own a slice of fashion history.
Tracing the Evolution of Rei Kawakubo
The auction serves as a comprehensive retrospective of Rei Kawakubo’s creative trajectory. The selection spans from the avant-garde masterpieces that defined the late 90s to the foundational designs that established the brand’s identity.
Among the highlights are:
- The Sculptural Era: Pieces from the seminal 1997 Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body collection-famed for its provocative, distorted silhouettes-will be available alongside the hauntingly beautiful designs from the 2005 Broken Bride collection.
- Early Foundations: The auction features rare items dating back to the label’s inception in 1969. These early iterations highlight Kawakubo’s initial focus on oversized, androgynous tailoring, which perfectly embodied the brand’s name, “like the boys.”
- Historical Rarities: La Rosa has included a spring 1984 “bedsheet” dress, a personal favorite that captures a pivotal moment when Rei Kawakubo was first establishing her presence on the Parisian stage.
Beyond the Mainline: A Deep Dive into the Archive
The breadth of this auction is staggering, with fourteen lots originating from before 1980, including a standout piece from 1975. While the focus remains on the core Comme des Garçons aesthetic, the collection also highlights the symbiotic relationship between Kawakubo and her protégés. The auction includes significant works by Junya Watanabe, whose contributions have been instrumental in expanding the brand’s technical and conceptual boundaries.
Why This Auction Matters for Collectors
In the current secondary market, the demand for archival fashion has reached an all-time high. According to recent industry reports, the resale value for high-concept archival pieces has seen a steady year-over-year increase, as collectors increasingly view these garments as tangible assets rather than mere clothing.
Whether it is the vibrant yellow tartan wool coat-dress from the Fall 1999 Transformed Glamour collection or the more understated, masculine-coded early designs, this auction provides a rare window into the evolution of one of the most influential fashion houses in history. For the serious collector, this is more than a sale; it is a chance to preserve the legacy of a designer who fundamentally altered the landscape of modern dress.
